The London spice route is hotter than ever: new openings have introduced regional variations and fresh takes on traditional recipes-while old favourites are upping their game
INDIAN ACCENT, MAYFAIR
BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT FOR: a refined take on Indian comfort food
DISH TO ORDER: soy keema with lime-leaf butter pao
After creating a stir in New York with its creative twist on traditional Indian flavours, one of the top restaurants in New Delhi has now also opened in London's Mayfair. In a space that feels as a decadent as a Rajasthan palace - with carved brass panels, jade-green velvet seating, and the amber glow of low lighting - incredibly friendly staff serve dishes that chef Manish Mehrotra has cooked up by blending street-food and home-cooking staples with produce not usually found in the Indian larder. The result is not forced fusion but rather well-balanced, flavour-packed plates such as Kashmiri morels with Parmesan papad, black-pudding-stuffed kulcha bread (hot and buttery from the tandoor and served with dal and wasabi-spiked cucumber raita), and meetha achaar ribs with deliciously tart sundried mango. Choose the nine-course tasting menu and settle in for the evening, kicking things off with a Mughal Fortification cocktail (bourbon, coriander honey, saffron and fennel), and sinking a grand cru sour ale from Belgium. The great British favourite of beer and a curry gets a smart 21st-century upgrade.
Source: Condé Nast Traveller