For most cities, the news that a branch of Indian Accent, the revered Delhi temple to Indian fine dining, had opened, would be met with some feverish anticipation. But London’s reputation for upscale eateries specialising in the food of the subcontinent, coupled with 2017’s glut of intriguing new South Asian offerings, makes the city’s locals an especially tough crowd to please.
The market’s saturation isn’t something that’s been lost on owners Old World Hospitality, who have chosen to focus on the fundamentals over unnecessary accoutrements. To that end, they’ve commissioned Brighton-based studio Design LSM to reimagine materials familiar in Indian architecture to create an appropriately luxurious interior. Set over two floors connected by a striking spiral staircase, a combination of brass, marble and combed pearl-lustred walls create an environment worthy of the brand’s award-winning cuisine, for which diners settle into crushed emerald velvet banquettes.
Chef Manish Mehrotra’s penchant for incorporating old-world ingredients and flavours with contemporary technique is evident in dishes like kashmiri morels with walnut powder and parmesan papad, and in unusual plates like makhan malai, a medieval dish created by infusing aerated milk with saffron. As with Indian Accent’s locations in New York and Delhi, there’s also an excellent wine list, as well as a selection of rare whiskies and fine cocktails.